Making a Terrarium
Open‑Top Terrarium: Step‑by‑Step Guide (No Activated Charcoal Needed)
First, gather everything you need: a clear container (like an old jar, bowl, or vase), about 1–2 inches of pebbles or gravel, a coffee filter or small scrap of landscape fabric, a well‑draining potting mix, and any soil amendments you have on hand (perlite, coarse sand, or even crushed eggshells). You’ll also want drought‑tolerant plants—succulents, cacti, or air plants work best—along with decorative accents such as small stones, bark pieces, or miniature figurines, and a spray bottle for misting.
Next, pour your pebbles or gravel into the bottom of the container to create a 1–2 inch drainage layer. This rocky bed keeps excess water away from plant roots, preventing soggy soil and root rot. To stop soil from washing down into the stones, lay a piece of coffee filter or landscape fabric over the gravel. This simple barrier holds the potting mix in place while still allowing water to drain through.
In a separate bowl, mix your potting soil with any perlite, sand, or eggshells you have. You’re aiming for a light, gritty blend that lets water pass through quickly. Spoon this mixture into your container, leaving enough room at the top so your plants’ crowns (where the stem meets the leaves) stay above the soil.
Now it’s time to plant. Use your finger or a small tool to make holes in the soil, gently nestle each plant’s roots in place, and firm the soil around them—keeping the crowns exposed to avoid rot. Space your plants so there’s good airflow between them.
Once your plants are in, tuck in decorative “trail markers” like stones, pieces of bark, or tiny figurines. These add personality to your mini landscape and help anchor the soil on any little slopes you create.
Because there’s no charcoal to absorb moisture, water sparingly. Use your spray bottle or a dropper to mist the soil at the edge, and only water again when the soil is completely dry—usually every two weeks or so.
Choose a bright spot with indirect light—morning sun or filtered daylight works best. Avoid harsh afternoon sun that can turn the glass into an oven and overheat your plants.
Finally, check in once a month. Remove any yellowing or dead leaves to prevent decay, brush away fallen debris, and, if you spot mold or see too much moisture, leave the top off for a few hours to air out.
With solid drainage, breathable soil, and water‑wise plants, your open terrarium will thrive—no charcoal required. Enjoy your living tabletop trail!
Creating a Native Flower Bouquet
How to Create Your Native‑Flower Bouquet
Harvest Early & Prepare Immediately
- When to cut: Harvest in the cool of early morning, before the sun’s heat causes stress.
- Where to snip: Make clean cuts near the base of each stem to help the plant recover and maintain its natural shape.
Initial Hydration (“Conditioning”)
- Warm water bath: Plunge cut stems into warm (not hot) water right away.
- Floral food boost: Add a commercial floral food (e.g., FloraLife Crystal Clear) to the water for 12–24 hours to hydrate and extend vase life.
Prepare Your Container
- Vase over foam: Most native stems drink heavily, so use a vase of fresh water rather than floral foam.
- Shallow option: If you must use a shallow bowl, scrunch and insert a ball of chicken wire (reusable!) to hold stems in place.
- Reinforce with tape: Stretch waterproof floral tape in a grid across the vase mouth to support heavy or floppy stems.
Build the Arrangement
- Heaviest stems first: Start with your largest or sturdiest blooms (e.g., Coulter’s Matilija Poppy, Coral Bells).
- Add foliage & accents: Layer in interesting branches, berries, or textured leaves (hollyleaf cherry, sugar bush).
- Fill gaps: Turn the vase as you go, filling empty spaces for a full, 360° design.
Stem Care in the Vase
- Fresh cuts as you arrange: Trim about ¼″ off each stem just before placing it in water to improve uptake.
- Weight it down: If a branch leans or tips, add decorative pebbles or glass rocks at the bottom.
- Daily upkeep: Change the water every day, re‑snip stems, and remove any foliage below the waterline to prevent bacterial growth.
Drawing an Oak Tree
Step‑by‑Step Guide to Drawing an Oak Tree
To draw an oak tree, start with the trunk, then add the branches, foliage, and finally, some details like bark texture and grass. A simple method involves using basic shapes and gradually adding details to create a natural, organic look.
Materials: Paper and pencil
Step-by-Step Guide:
- 1. Sketch the Trunk: Begin by drawing a thick, rounded base for the trunk. Make it sturdy and consider the tree's overall shape.
- 2. Add Branches: Start with the main branches, growing out from the trunk in a natural, uneven pattern. Use a V-shape to indicate where branches will split and then add more branches coming off of those.
- 3. Foliage: Sketch the leaves in clumps rather than drawing individual leaves. Use irregular shapes and lines to create a sense of depth and movement.
- 4. Details: Add details like bark texture on the trunk using short, angled lines, and consider adding some shadows to indicate light and depth.
- 5. Ground: Draw some grass or ground beneath the tree to anchor it in place.
Tips for a Realistic Oak Tree:
- Observe a Real Oak: Look at real oak trees for inspiration, paying attention to the branching patterns, trunk shape, and foliage.
- Think About Growth: Consider how branches grow and overlap, and how the tree's shape changes over time.
- Embrace Imperfection: Oak trees are natural and irregular. Don't be afraid to make your drawing unique and organic.
- Use Different Line Weights: Vary the thickness of your lines to create depth and dimension.
- Add Shading: Use shading to indicate light and shadow, making the tree look three-dimensional.
Credit: Easton Canyon Nature Center, City of Pasadena and Generative AI
